Ok I was researching and found this product from another post:

http://shop.3bspecialties.com/product.sc?categoryId=10&productId=23

I guess it's supposed to put less strain on the OEM wiring harness.
Now, is it worth getting it?
Is there a better place to buy?
Would I need one for the headlights and one for the fogs also?
Or do I need them at all?

Thanks, and sorry about another HID question/thread.

Ebay has those for sale for a lot cheaper. I'll try and find one for you. I don't use for for the headlights, just for the fogs, but that's just because I'm cheap and lazy.

Are you going to do HID heads and fogs?

Haha! Thanks ordonez and yes i'm going HID for heads and fogs.

yeah, I would only do it for the Fogs but you really don't need to.

STOCK HALOGEN HEADLIGHTS = 55w
STOCK HALOGEN FOGLIGHTS = 27w (I believe)

HID (fogs or headlights) = 35w.

OEM Fogs=33
HID=35

Use them for ALL HID setups, unless you like messing around with them a second or third time

Well if stock ones are 33w then all the LESS reason you would need an HID harness.

For $15, its a good assurance that you won't have any problems.

edit: you probably don't need a bi-xenon harness.

Any links to a cheaper harness? (For Heads/Fogs)

Thanks!

One level up from your link: http://shop.3bspecialties.com/category.sc;jsessionid=AE0368401D53F7E2DC6E7D8816696C9B.qscstrfrnt03?categoryId=10

Either the plug-and-play harness or the relay wiring harness are $15. You only need the bi-xenon harness if you're using a bi-xenon kit.

2 Questions. Do the relays just plug right into the OEM wiring harness? Will those relays work with any HID kit? Thanks for the link man.

P.S. I'm doing Bi-Xenon on heads and Single with fogs. So I will need one for each correct?

Ebay is your friend.
The one I use is for a ford ranger p/up.

Yes, those harnesses have the adapters already, so you can just plug them in to your stock harness, which connects to the relay. They will work with any kit (all kits are the same).

Yes, you will need one bi-xenon kit, and one single kit.

I used the relay wiring harness. Stock connector controls the relay, power comes directly from the battery. So, current draw through the stock harness is minimal, ballasts pull current directly from the battery instead.

Thanks Guys!!! Awesome Info and what I wanted to know!!!

Is there any reason you're gonna dish out the cash for a bi-xenon's? I have a single beam kit in the heads and fogs, and its really really bright already. I would never use the high-beams.

I dunno really, I do live out in the sticks/country. Actually, I just got them in like 10 minutes ago but it is COLD as hell out. I went outside for like 10 mins., looked at it and said f*** this i'm going back inside.

The bi-xenon looks all complicated (more wiring). I'm not big into the electrical parts on stuff, it kinda looks straight forward but now I gotta order those other harnesses.

I didn't think there were extra wires for the bi-xenon kit?

You can run the lights without the harnesses. I did for a long time, and my headlights still don't have the harness.

There should be some extra wiring to get the highs connected (non-bi-xenon kits do not allow highs with the stock capsules, since 9007s are a high/low bulb). However, it shouldn't be any more complex than a regular harness, should still be plug-and-play.

Ok i'm about to buy, but I want the relay harness NOT the plug and play cause I already have that with the kit right?

Why does the Bi-Xenon have only one of those blue capusal things, but when I went outside and looked there is one of those blue capsals on both sides (both headlights)? I'll post some pics up in a sec...

Bi-Xenon kit (Heads) Make sure it looks like I have everything!


That one blue plug I was talking about, but the stock one has one for both sides.


A wire with a fuse in the middle of it.


And the Single Beam, look it over and make sure I have all of it.

Ok after looking over the directions, I kinda understand it a lot better... a shock, I know!!! LOL!!!

Ok i'm thinking that blue plug goes into a connector somewhere that I can't see at the moment, and the OEM harness has some kind of a "Y" harness that goes out to both headlights. That's why I see "2" of those blue plugs on the stock harness.

How do you connect that wire that has the fuse to the battery? Is there some kind of special connector I can buy at the store or does it just bolt straight up to the + terminal?

Thanks a bunch for the help so far! I'm still researchin'!

"That wire that has a fuse in it" is the headlight harness. It already has a connector on the end of it. It's called a ring connector. Hook that end up to the positive terminal on top of the fuse box under the hood.

Ok, where will these connectors go? These are on the fogs-880 bulb harness. (Single Beam)

I don't remember, it's been a long time since I hooked up HIDs in my fogs and I can't go look because I removed them about 5 minutes after installing them.
BTW... you'll run the risk of melting your OEM plastic lenses and/or plastic housings with those 880 HIDs.

I'm hearin' both sides of the story on melting the lense/housing. One person says I might, one says I will. I might just hold off til Spring to put the fogs in, but I wanta try gettin' the heads in. It's just too cold to be doing anything outside right now.

Just confused on that connector picture before your post and that blue plug for the headlights.

PS I ordered the Relay Harness for the (Bi) Heads and (Single Beam)Fogs

ALSO: I read in one post that for the fogs I have to change the #13 fuse to a 15 AMP Fuse (stock is 10 AMP) because of the raised wattage I believe with HID's

The blue connector plugs into the blue connector on your oem wiring. It provides the "on/off" for the HID's circuit, that's why there's only one.

Keep in mind 880s are 27 watts, your oem plastic housings and lenses are designed for 27 watts. HIDs will increase the wattage to 35, thus increasing the heat temp. Not to mention the 880 HID bulbs will also sit much closer to the plastic lens.
Most people get aftermarket metal housings and glass lens fog lights then get HIDs for those.

Ok thanks for the blue connector info, make sense.

Yeah, i'll probably be in the hunt to get some new fog light housings. I'll try to find some that will fit a 880 bulb, but I doubt I will. I'll just get some new bulbs for the fogs, no big deal, they're the cheaper ones at least not the Bi-Xenon's.

I'm going to go with you MIGHT be okay with the stock housings and HIDs. Might melt because a) 35W versus 27W and b) closer to plastic. Might not because HID runs cooler than halogen.

Not the 880's. 880's are 27 watts, HIDs are 35 watts. Clearly HID 880s run hotter than halogen 880's.
35 watts are hotter than 27 watts any way you slice it up.

xenons produce 10-15% less heat than halogens of the same wattage, supposedly. So, 35W xenon ~= 33W halogen.

So yes, they will run hotter. Was just saying the xenons are more efficient at converting electricity to light, so thats a potential offset. But not in this case, IMO.