you guys have to read how bad my day was, its long again, but everythingi went so wrong that you have to read it, worst day ever, started the day with a low tire because there is a nail in it, then i get to work and disconnected my neg cable from my battery, hoping that it would be one of the solutions to my problem, i installed a speedbuilt fenderwell intake about 2 weeks ago, but what i dident know was that you had to re-learn your pcm after installing the intake, to do this i was told to disconnect the neg cable for 30 min then it should resat the pcm, WELL! ok so i popped the hood, disconnected the cable, locked all the doors closed the hood, but what i did not mention before, my key has been stuck in the ignition for about a month now, sometimes it would come out, and i cant shift out of park, i have to push my keys into the shift lock release botton beside the shifter to release it, so after i locked all the doors and closed the hood, i dident think right and just grabbed my house keys with the key fob on it, that how ive been getting in and out of my car, so i come back half hour later, then it hits me, S***! no way in, and my cable has been unplugged for like an hour or more, but thats not all, my spare set of keys are in the arm rest inside my car, so ok, get the coat hanger, and start prying the door on top with some tools, then i pryied too hard and bent the top of the door frame and the door, ripped the weather stripping, huge dent above the door and its all scratched too S*** from the coat hanger, WORST CAR TO LEAVE YOUR KEYS IN! the little unlock at the handle is so hard to flick back with a hanger, finally about close too 2 hours we get in, so i go to attach the neg cable back on, and zap, wasent expecting that, finally get it screwed in, i start the car, WONT START, try again, WONT START, third time i could hear something clicking under the hood when i turned to key to the on position, so i turned it back thinking it was maybe an electrical surge or something i dont know, so ok i wait, then i turn the key to on position again and it did it again, so i decided to start it to see what would happen, it started up, stumbled then it was ok, after i get home i open the hood and ask my partner to turn the key to on as i listened, found out it was coming from around the cruize control unit and also on the other side at the fuse relay box, like really quick clicking sounds, sounded like something getting electricuted. and to top it all off, my problem is even worst, really garling now, and its sharper too. and i dident even see any diff with the performance from the intake, so all that for nothing. but i dont think i was done right, i think when i reconnected the cable i was supposed to go through some kind of reseting steps, like leaving the key in the on positon for 15 min, then turn off, then wait, then repeat, something like that, anyways i dont know, but keep coming with the suggetions guys, i just gotta pick myself up and try again.

Take it to a mechanic.

THATS THE PROBLEM!, my uncles and grandfather do not have the right tools for this kind of problem, cars now a days rely way too much on electronics, and the dealership its over 200 just to diag the problem, its funny there is no trouble code, the car is acting up, dying down, and now today its ticking at the fuse box and somewhere around the cruze, so by time the dealership gets finished screwing me it will cost probley over a grand with parts and labour, so im talking to you guys, i think what i was told to try today, was a good soloution, but there was more to it then just unplug the neg cable and plug it back in, but see what if i put in my new dhp pcm, and i damage something even worst, what do i do? there is so much stuff i posted, which do i try next?

well you said you have all your money in the car, so why not save yourself and take it to the dealer for 200 when you might try all these other things that could add up to thousands just an idea

Just out of curiosity, did you check the battery connections to ensure they are tight? If you can move either cable by hand, that may be the reason your relays are ticking. Sorry to hear you're having so much trouble with your car..

For the key stuck in ignition problem, check for blown fuses (the one marked BTSI comes to mind). Good Luck!

thanks guys ill try that, relay's, is that what it is, they are on both sides of the motor? they just tick like really fast multiple ticks, but its super fast when i turn the key to on, just for a quick second, and the dealer is a 200 or more just for the diag, and you know dealers, they will say it is something else even when they know what it is, they are like that here in canada, i worked at 2 dealerships, i know. but what you say is true, i might end up really damaging my car, but still, anything else that could cause that ticking, are you sure its the relays? and i will check my fuses right now, BTSI....are those the ones in the fuse box under the hood? the big grey ones, i always wanted to know how to check those ones

The BTSI fuse (Brake Transmission Shift Interlock) is located in the fuse box behind your glove box. Open your glove box, pop out the storage box on the right hand side, and you should see it (10 Amp fuse). If the fuse is good, then take your car to someone who can check it out for you, or continue to use the override feature.

override feature? what is that, im sorry im just learning here.

anything else that could cause that ticking, are you sure its the relays?

not sure if im just not understanding or not but have you pinpointed when and where the "gurgling" is coming from.
-with the car in park, does it make the noise when you rev it or when its idling?
-does it come from underneath the car or under the hood?
-if you put the car in nuetral does it make the sound while your sitting still or rolling?

as for the battery cables not being connected all the way - it seems simple but i know my cable can be "pushed" into terminal and will stay there even with out being tightened. i would check that as well.

and for the "reconnect" of the battery you shouldnt have to follow a procedure. simply disconnect the the cable and make sure it isnt touching anything and then reconnect it carefully.

that all being said it might be a good point to take it to a shop or a dealer...we've all come to that conclusion with our current car or another at some point, sometimes you have to give up and just get it fixed.

The shift lock release button beside the shifter, that you mentioned using earlier.

THERE IS NO PERFECT GRAND PRIX UNLESS ITS WHITE, WANT TO TRADE, THAT WHAT I WANTED BUT ALL OF THE white grand prix's at the time either had no leather or sunroof, or the supercharger was sluggish, or high kms, so i settled for a fully loaded gtp but brown, but white paint is coming soon, its a great looking car in white.

anyways, yes the pcm has to go through a case learn afterwards, i want to learn how i can do it someone told me to disconnect my neg cable for 30 min then reconnect it, but all went haywire. did it wrong i think.

and for my problem, its coming from under the car, i think the exaust, either a clogged cat, or maybe a leak holes or seals worn, i dont know, but it gargles like that because of something more serious, like maybe my pcm is out of wack, or the torque converter, it loses power on take off, like the rpm drops then shoots up and then she kicks in and goes, but if i tramp it on take off it doesent lose power it goes like crazy, and shifts perfect, but it still gargles, its like the cat has something flapping around inside it. and when im driving and i accel it dies alittle and gargles again, unless i really floor it, its like its not getting enough pressure or something, and the longer the i drive it like this the worst its getting. i dont know ive been trying to resolve this problem for the last month, and evryone has great suggestions but who's right?

another thing i should mention guys is that in the morning or when the car is cold or cool, it doesnt seem to be as bad, does that help the diag process?

ok guys last time i will bug you, im installing my mods and dhp pcm this weekend, now i have my 180 thermostate, and im flushing my coolant, does a 180 require different coolant, and how much exactly do i buy, im on my way to canadian tire now before i go to the cottage, and then im installing my 3.4 pully with the gator back belts, then the new pcm, is this order backwards, which should i install first, all the mods and then the pcm?

Well, I would figure out the gargling before doing your mods. You need to get the ubend done before anything. When you do the coolant don't put back in DexCool. Put in Peak Global Lifetime. Two of the large container bottles should do. Do the 180 tstat at this time. Then you can do the PCM. But make sure you have the exhaust fixed before all this. And I wouldn't puton the 3.4 with the problems you have especially since you can't scan or don't have a way to scan for KR.