Alright, I went out there today and checked everything out.

All vac lines are intact and were checked with carb cleaner. All wires soundly secured and none are damaged.


Here's what happened while I was there. We took the car out, beat the piss out of it, didn't die out at all.

Took it out again later, went onto the highway. Then for no apparent reason while CRUISING, there was a sudden jerk and the motor was dead. All the dummy lights came on like when you key the car on, and the rpm gauge was falling from about 1200rpm back to zero as we coasted under zero power to the side of the highway.

Tim did not goose it or anything. He was cruising at the speed limit, not accelerating or decelerating, then when it happened, the car jerked and the motor was off.


From what I can tell, if it were the fuel pump the motor would at least sputter or hesitate or something. This is completely binary, the motor is running fine and then in an instant, it's off.

I think it's got the be the Ignition Control Module. Cutting off all spark in a moment is the only way to kill a motor that quickly.

I mean, it dies so fast that the tranny doesn't have time to disengage. That's why it jerks. In that split second after the motor dying, it engine brakes the car until the tranny disengages.

Go pay a shop to diagnosis this, But for those mods. They might not touch it lol

At this point, I would pay someone to diagnosis, Even though we all hate paying a shop, Somethings need to be done.

The ICM wiring has to be cut. Whether it be the cam or crank, something isn't right with that. Do not pay a shop to look at the same wires you should.

Corey I checked em. The wiring was run down there behind the coil pack bracket, like it should be.

Felt all the way down to the cam sensor, the wires are prestine and there's no possibility of them coming in contact with the belts.

Couldn't really check the crank sensor and wiring because all of that is behind the balancer and out of sight unless the car is on a lift. But everything else is checking out.


On a side note, anybody got the new AeroForce gauges? Tim's IACs were reading like 5600-6400 and cruising IACs were like 16400.

My IAC reads 20 at idle and like 50 cruising.

There is a shield that goes around the balancer that might be gone/not on right that has allowed the crank sensor wire to get mangled.

I would take off the balancer and look.

was the engine doing what the tach showed? If the tach was doing it's own thing I'd suspect the CPS is bad. No signal from the CPS no ignition. The intermitant part could be once the sensor is warm it fails. That's why it can set for a while and fire up and run fine then poof!

the curse of the red cars has strunken again

this started happening right after i had the tune at ZZP. Never before did any of this happen.

I really need to know what to do because I need the car.

well if it happened right after zzp tune that means they jacked something up... take it to the sourse of the problem

Yes I have the newer aeroforce and it reads iac like that, not sure how to correlate it to what you should be seeing.

tell me what you guys think of this.

http://www.clubgp.com/newforum/tm.asp?m=4892151&p=1&tmode=1&smode=1

Delete that p0101 code ASAP, That sounds ridiculous how much money he tried to throw at it ? like 2 MAF's ? woah, but Go for that, he seemed to have the identical issue.

i need someone with a tuner to come HERE!!! lol lonezerg has one but his laptop is broken.

I figure boosten would have one....

Myabe some one could send a laptop/PT through the mail ? Its a stretch but you need this.

Is this car you DD ?

boosten does not have a tuner. Yes this car is a my DD, but while its down I am using my grandpa's 07 ford ranger.

I bet andrew would be nice enough to loan it to you for a small fee ?

I think he has a PT ?

well, whoever would like to help me, i need them to come here, because i am not driving this car on the freeway the way it is. Ive had too many close encounters with cars almost hitting me when it stalls.

Try taking the ICM to NAPA. They can test it there. Tell them the problem and have them test it 3 or 4 times in a row. That will get it pretty hot. Intermittent like that it may test good, but may still be bad. I would come over to take you there tomorrow but am working myself. Or I can come over Monday after work at around 5:30. Not sure what help I will be without a tuner, but can try to help.

try what the guy suggests and unplug the egr...

ok, so i just took the car out on the little stretch of freeway that me and Zerg tested it out on, on friday and with the egr unplugged and doing 3 passes on the freeway it didnt kick off once. With the egr plugged in and a 1/2 pass it kicked off.

So, with that said I am now looking for someone with a tuner to come and erase this code for me. It would be greatly appreciated!

ALSO, on my scan gauge it was showing me that i had 3 codes, NONE of which, tripped the SES light to come on, on the dash.

Is the SES light dead??

im not sure. it was on the other day but just went off by itself.

If the bulb is good it should illuminate when you turn the key on.

well the ses light came on today while i was taking it for a drive. im going to leave the egr unplugged and see how far that gets me until someone can help me out.

What are the codes?

they were p0101(maf), p0403 (egr), p0405 (Egr)

When I installed my boost gauge last night, some where along the tubing there was a vac. leak, and the car kept dieing, Then I kept looking, and the vac line running right into the L bend under the MAP sensor was disconnect, and that threw a p0101 (maf) code like you, Then i connected it, cleared the code, then started it up, and it all went away.

Just to double check, under the MAP sensor, its a rubber L bend, where the line from the LIM runs into.

its worth a shot ?

Yep. the EGR has 2 codes. It is possible that you got a bad MAF from the parts store.

no, i didnt get a bad maf. because the rough idle i had before is now gone after i put the new maf in.

The reason i was saying that i had 3 codes was because i unplugged the egr like "Mike P" on clubgp suggested doing. The p0101 code does not come on now.

I just need someone with a tuner to come and delete the p0101 code, because that is the code that was killing my car.

I have everything figured out. I just need someone to delete the code.

not everything, WHY is that the solution? Yes, it seems to fix the problem, but...

P0101 could be one of those codes that affect the engine when it's tripped.


Tim, have you gotten it out onto the highway and to work yet?

ya, if u read one of my posts john it says that i took it out to that freeway where you and me tested it and it worked fine with the egr unplugged. Once i plugged the egr back in the engine stalled.

yes there is a guy on clubgp who had the same problem that i had. ALL he had to do was ERASE THAT CODE. His car has NOT stalled since.

Just go buy a code reader and you can erase any stored codes.

I am aware of that, Tim... You are solving a problem by eliminating a symptom, rather than the root cause. The real question is, why is P0101 popping all of a sudden? Is it top-swap related?

zalfrin, i have no idea. ALL im going by, is what i was TOLD on clubgp.

Herc, i have to go in with a TUNER and delete the code. The code isnt popping up under my SES anymore. The only codes that are popping up are the EGR codes.

That is just odd. I don't understand how that solves a problem, that didn't exist before.

So your wanting to delete the MAF code all together not just reset?

Just wondering, How would just a code solve the problem ? I read that thread though. I Just dont see how a code from the PCM would make it better, But then again it could change how everything else reacts with it. But heck, go for it.

because, for SOME odd reason it is confusing the PCM. I have NO idea WHY it is doing what its doing, ALL i know is that its causing the motor to stall. I have had the EGR unplugged since friday and i have driven on the freeway plenty and have had no problems BECAUSE THE CODE ISNT POPPING UP.

Yes Herc, i need to RID the code all together.

P0101 reads "MAF performance". Both of my MAF's are good but for some reason its telling the PCM that the MAF is bad when its not which is sending it mixed signals and causing the engine to stall.

when you get a scanner, check map and baro with key-on only, should both be 65-105 kPa. If not, replace MAP. If so, start engine and check map at idle, should be 29-48 kPa. If not, check for intake manifold vacuum leaks, TB vacuum leaks, EGR leaks, PCV malfunction, unresponsive MAP. Check MAP increases as throttle increases. Check for 5V at the MAF signal circuit (??? This is from the service manual, I don't know how the MAF is going to output a voltage without the connector being hooked up to provide power?) Check for 12V between MAF connector power and ground (not chassis ground for this test)

Also check TP sensor, make sure it reads 0 at idle and moves like you'd expect.

The reason it dies is when P0101 sets, the MAF value changes from whats coming from the sensor to a calculated value based on IAC position (probably whats ultimately killing your engine), TP, RPM, and BARO.

unplugging egr prevents the code from setting. so yes deleting will solve it, but i think you really need to figure out why it's setting.

one more thing... ONCE you've checked those things, if there is no problem, there is a table that can be modified, default MAF vs TPS vs RPM (not in PT software). I believe this is the table that is checked for determining if P0101 should set. If it is "significantly different" from the MAF readings, P0101 sets. I'll see if I can find out what "significantly different" means.

GTs seem to have this table zeroed out for some reason... Maybe copying gtp table in would fix it, not sure. We can try if you can get me a copy of your bin.

this did not start happening until i got the car tuned at ZZP.

I'm pretty sure it's something they didn't do right in their top swap file, but I don't think you'll get them to admit that either.

well as i said, I am not going to touch anything UNTIL I get someone with a tuner to help me.

Duff, im hoping sometime soon you can help me out with this problem.

I'm an hour farther south from Andrew if you want to come out this way.

lol ya im not driving 5 hrs just to do one thing sorry.

no problem. Neither am I, but thought I would offer.

Tim, I may get a laptop next week. My car is being a PITA right now and tuning her is the only thing that is going to fix it.

take a look at the maf max delta airflow table when you get the bin, that seems to be what controls the DTC turning on.

ok. if you dont get one by next friday I will just have someone at Drag Day take a look at it as I will be there next weekend.