Hey it starts when I tap on the switch box, will running it like that till weekend, hurt/burn any components up? Also I went to Burien today to get tabs, when I got home(20 mile rt)smoke was coming out the rear sides of hood,in front of windshield looked light colored, don't know if it was from not replacing exhaust flange, between exhaust and rear mani, or possibly a clogged cat. I checked rear valve cover, and did see one of the rear bolts(right side middle ones) worked its way loose, and i felt wet oil in area, tightened it, hope that was the prob.The rest of the bolts were tight.
Thanks for any replies.

You're supposed to use loctite on all those exhaust bolts. It won't hurt anything to run with a failing switch.

I know it's a little late, but here's the link for removing the ignition switch, to clean the contacts: Ignition Switch Instructions (With Pictures) and the Ignition Bypass Mod

The hardest part of the job of course, is finding the right size torx sockets..

Thanks for the links on the switch, Well turned out my power steering hose had a leak and was the smoke culprit, even had a little fire on the o2, was able to blow it out, I did add a qrt of tranny fluid before smoke started, so I thought it was tranny fluid that came up filler tube and splashed on exhaust, so I drained about 1/2 to 3/4 qrt. anyway got ps hose on started her up and ps pump whined for a couple blocks then stopped, but now transmission is making noise, but only in park, when I put in gear noise stops, I added 1/2 qrt tranny fluid, but no change. any suggestions,
Thanks

With the car in Park on level ground, start the engine and let it reach operating temperature. Then step on the brake, and put the shifter in each gear for a few seconds, until you're back in Park again. Then check the trans fluid level with the engine running in Park, and add if necessary.

Thanks bud I did try that last night, thats when I put 1/2 quart in, and still noise in park, I will add more this morning and hope it goes away. Is noise in park only a sign of low tranny fluid? Just hope I didn't f it up when I added a quart or drained out to much.
I kept seeing red fluid on firewall and components around filler tube, even under brake booster, so I thought it was tranny fluid, smelled like tranny fluid, but found out my ps hose had a leak, when I detached the hose the ps fluid was reddish collored and smelled like tranny fluid, so been ps fluid all along.

Ok great nois is in tranny but not fluid related, the vac T I could not find I modified and one side goes down in to tranny,



it leaks, I pushed on T and sound went away,let go sound came back,for some reason I took off that black zip tie, I will put another tie back on for temp fix and go find the right T and fix, do you know where the evap can is at rear of vehicle? I put a hose coming up from drivers side that goes under car on rear vac T, just don't remember if that where I pulled it from 12 months ago, don't see any other loose vac lines so gotta be it.
Thanks, and no more fluid leaks!!!

The Evap Canister is behind the driver side rear wheel and housing liner. You'll need to remove both to get at it.

kool thanks, that means the hose I got hooke up to t next to rear mani is the right hose. Hey Blackarrow98GP
you are a great help and I thank you, and aprieciate all your time.

Now when I start car, I hear a light knock in engine, sounds lower engine, until warms up, I have 10-40 in car to thick for 129000 mile engine? auto parts/machinist said oil was on them, didn't relize he gave me 10-40 till I got home
Thanks

Hey when cleaning contacts on switch do these got to sanded down to bare brass or is the contact on left what they should look like.

(Borrowed image)

Thanks

Anyone?

Left is correct.

I just cleaned the black stuff off, but I should of took pitures of disasembly. dang key doesn't return back to run position got to pop back apart and reset cam and spring, will just keep fiddling till I get it right:

pic from another forum.

Well got to get a new switch, I either can't get cylender lock in key in run position , or, I turn the rectangle hole to where I can get cylinder lock in and car won't start and accessories only come on in start pos, or I move cam and spring in different position and key won't spring back to run. spring loaded so I must have to force the the end of spring that stick up into a certain spot. I got the end that stick out in the notch at 5 o-clock like in 2nd picture on this switch

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/1/1/542938-ignition-starter-switch-by-bwd-part-cs545.html