I am getting ready to put in NGK TR55 plugs. I was told to gap them at .55. I was wondering of I should torque them to the nomral specs or if they would vary running 180 t-stat, TB spacer and 3.4 SC pulley?

Not sure I'm following you. Torque them? Are referring to the actual torque specsification of the spark plugs? Frankly, I'm sure I've ever known what the torque specs. are for the plugs. Are there any? In every car I've ever owned, I've just tightened them down to just a bit more than snug. As a side note: make sure you use a little anti-sieze on the plug threads. Makes them a lot easier to get out next time.

But... if there are torque specs. for the plugs, I doubt modifying the pulley, TB spacer or stat would change it.

If I'm off base with what you're asking... let me know.

Marc

Don't use anti-sieze on the plugs. Only use it on aluminum heads ours are cast iron. And yes only snug the plugs in diff Tstats and other mods dont require different torques for the plugs

thanks guys. I didnt know if there would be or not. I dont want to take any chances.

Yes, there is a torque spec on spark plugs, but no one usually uses it. Like it was said earlier, just torque them a hair past snug. Also, I would advise against using anti-seize compound on the plugs as well. There's really no need for it, unless you plan on going 150,000 miles between plug changes, and you routinely detail your engine compartment with salt water. It's been proven that the anti-seize can actually act as a heat insulator, and sometimes cause some additional pre-ignition, because you are sort of changing the heat range of the plug. The AC's and NGK's have a pretty good corrosion-fighting coating on them as well, and don't really tend to rust up.

wow. that I didnt know and probably WOULD have used antiseize when changing my plugs this time around. THANKS GUYS

Jeff

Hmmm... I hadn't heard that. I've been using anti-sieze for the last 176K miles and never noticed a problem. I'll have to look into that some more. Good food for thought...

Thanks!

Anti-sieze is only needed on aluminum heads. If your plugs are corroding into your iron heads your leaven em in way too long. Even if your runnin platinums you should still pull the plugs on a regular basis to ensure everything is running just fine.

I changed my plugs with a normal wrench and bloody knuckles and they haven't popped out yet. Never even thought to use anti-seize.

Good One!

Cast iron, Huh?? I didn't think there'd been a cast iron engine head made in years and years. Go figger. Shows how much I don't know.

Gary in Sandy Eggo

yeah all gm truck heads are cast iron (or were) and the heads on the LT1 in my Impala SS were cast iron. Only the Fbody and vette got aluminum heads.

Just called two different dealers and they both said the Cylinder heads are made of ALUMINUM!!!

Quote from Herman:
Anti-sieze is only needed on aluminum heads.

So if the Heads are aluminum, use anti-seize.
All mechanic I asked say they use it on aluminum heads for spark plugs. End of story.

so in other words, DO NOT let that moter overheat too long or youll have a warped head..eekkkk!!!!
good to know cause i love to put the hammer dowwn since its spring

yes use anti sieze on aluminum the dissimaler metals will cause corrosion and cause your plugs to become stuck.