Hey guys! Well I just went to post a new topic on here and when I hit post it deleted it so I am going to try this again only not as in depth as before.
My car is at Milzys getting LIM gaskets and a water pump, Mike is also deleting the EGR and putting a new rear valve cover gasket in. What led up to this was Friday my car started leaking but it was holding pressure there was no low coolant light on and not overheating so he thought it was the seep hole on the water pump. So I had him do the basic mods I had been putting off. (pcm tune,MPS,plugs,thermostat and smaller belt)it already had the downpipe. Then Saturday my engine light came on and the leak got worse. (the code it gave was the front o2 sensor, which was wierd because he said my sensors were working great the previous day he said they were sensitive tho) Anyway when he did the pressure test this time it lost some, after checking the water pump he concluded the bearings were bad and then there was a small LIM leak. What could cause a bad o2 in a day? Also he did a scan before mods and after there was KR with both, before being 7% and after was 3%..
He said he would clear the code and see if it comes back on then deal with it at that time. My gas mileage since the mods has been horrible grant its only been 2 days but I have put 40 dollars in it since I left Friday and that was after the test runs. If you have any imput that could help I appreciate it. Also he said today the SC snout is leaking and needs a gasket, which im just going to do, is there an actual gasket or do I just use the gasket maker??
Thanks!

I forgot to add my SES light was on after the downpipe was installed, he deleted that code Friday.

There is no gasket for the SC snout, just use RTV. I am confused on how he is measuring KR in %? It should be in degrees.

What mods do you have?

Also, a bad o2 will make your gas mileage drop considerably.

ya I am not sure on the KR percent maybe he meant degrees but the screen read in percentage as he was explaining it as too... Prior to Friday I only had the catted downpipe, then he did the thermostat,plugs,3.4pulley and tune. The KR was at 7 with just the dp and 3 after he did everything else.. Does anyone know if the poly mounts would help with reducing it? I dont know how big of a deal this is or could be but it seems to me after reading some other posts zero is what you want it at..Is this true?
Also, he cleared the o2 code and it hasnt came back on yet.(hopefully it dont) When I picked up my car last night he was talking to me about the air intake I have because when he did the scan it was 60 degrees outside and it was 120 under the hood. I dont know if the FWI would be any better? It just scares me a little with the chance of water getting sucked up when it rains..

The 3.4 is too small for such a small mod list. 0kr is ideal, but a couple of degrees isn't bad until you start getting into really small pulleys. Poly mounts will not reduce KR much, if at all. You need to get some more mods on there.

The intake is fine, it is 120 under the hood when the car is stationary, as soon as you start moving, it drops back down near 60. Don't worry about that.

If you have a high flow cat, it will trigger the o2 sensor code. As far as the fwi, it isn't completely necessary. A simple DIY intake and a box will suffice.

Deleting the EGR was silly and cost you a few mpg.

Not the front one. It will trigger the rear o2.

1-2mpg, at the worst. I bypassed it on my behemoth after getting mad at the Pacesetter headers. I could still pull over 30mpg highway with mine modded up the wazoo, cam and all. To me its a reasonable trade off to prevent all that gunk from getting in the intake. EGRs are nasty boogers.

For a stock engine there is no reason to delete the egr and cost yourself those mpg.

Other than to eliminate a possible problem part in a car, not needed for it to function, and reduce weight at the same time? /shrug

lol reduce weight? seriously? give me a break. disabling the egr on a stock vehicle is dumb. if you have things modded and want to keep the intake clean that's completely different.

Or you buy pacesetters and the EGR tube doesn't fit.

which is an example of... a non-stock vehicle.

The car was moving and was 120, stationary it went up more so.. as for the pulley its been said and I have read that you can use a 3.5 with next to no mods and the 3.4 calls for what I got. However my car had more knock without mods (stock)then with, the knock reduced with the mods added.. When I read on KR it said the normal movement/vibration from the engine can cause false knock and poly mounts can help with that.

I have NEVER got more then 18mpg. Unless my gauge is wrong? I dont drive on the highway much mostly intown and I work 2 miles away but im not sure how its calculated digitally?

lol. I know, I just still wouldn't have deleted it if I could have kept it.

Your KR is not false. It is due to the fact that the pulley is too small. You can continue to fight me on it, but go ahead and remove the supercharger belt and see if the knock is there.

plugs+thermostat are not going to reduce your KR by 4 degrees, assuming that is the actual unit of measurement you were given. How much timing did they pull from your WOT to allow you to run relatively safely on the 3.4? You will make more power running max WOT timing (~20 degrees) with a bigger pulley, versus reduced WOT timing and a smaller pulley. In either case you want 0 KR.

oh im not fighting you on anything and I appreciate you helping me, I dont really know too much on knock other then what I am told and what I read. I know that when I only had the 3.8 pulley, downpipe and air intake it was 7 then after the plugs, thermostat, 3.4 pulley and pcm tune it was 3. He said he didnt mess with the timing but can later if needed or wanted. He also said once I get the FWI he will scan it again and do any other adjustments needed.. My question is cant you ADD mods to reduce knock? Wouldnt putting a bigger pulley on it at this time be a waste?