Well since I don't think many have been following the 11 page thread on the push start button, since I completed it today I figured I'd make a new thread with pics and video.

Took about 3 hours. Given I soldered everything, which took much longer.
Disconnected battery.
First took off the lower dash, two screws. Then took off the metal housing under that, 6 screws.
Then I investigated the HUD switches, since I was going to use this spot. The wires are extremely short, 7 of them. So I had to add 18" or so to each. That took 45 minutes. And it worked after moving it to the left side!!
Then I began to run wiring for the relay.
Would have been much quicker and easier to have connectors for the relay tabs, but I soldered.
The button started up right away, but I couldn't get the bulb to illuminate.
I tested it, and it lite. I also tested volts to it and got 12+. I looked at the switch again and the diagram, and the diagram had it labeled wrong. So I had to swap + and - leads, and bam it lite up.
The car will still start via key, or key to accessory and push the button.
If you hit the button while it is running, it will squeel the starter just as if you turned the key while the car is running.

See link for all photos:
http://s106.photobucket.com/albums/m252/escapest01/Start%20Button/

Very nice.

Very cool :p

sweet mod! i think this needs to be placed in the how to section. good job everyone in the other thread for making this a reasonable and easy mod to do.

that is so sweet!!

dude that is sooo sweet! So when you turn your key to the "on" position and press the start button, do you leave it in the "on" or do you turn it further?

Cool glad to see it worked out for ya!

now you can tackle the burned out bulb in the DIC..... to the right you can see it is dimmer , 1 of 3 bulbs is burned out.

Nice create idea. I rather have key than start button. I can't imagine if theif will have easy way to steal car for click start button.

Or you can buy a remote start alarm and skip all the hassle

good mod though

holy crap steve, thats amazing!!!! this DEF needs to be part of the HOW to section, its sweet, you are all about these custom toutches, thus the rear bumper also lol

Nice idea on moving the HUD... oh wait... lol. I'm glad you are able to do that with the HUD stuff, now I can be sure it will work with mine.

Palsut, the thief still needs to turn the key to 1.) unlock the steering wheel

and

2.) turn on the accessories (which includes the fuel pump)

so how this is set up is not going to make it any easier to steal

And I would recommend using the heat shrink connectors over soldering and taping ANY day.

sometimes you have to solder, like on circuit boards. but it is just a better longer lasting connection using the connectors.

Nice bro! Clean setup.

Time to put the ignition in the dash!

Looks good! Not my kind of thing but thats what sets us all apart.

Take the time to read it first Palsut before you go making assumptions. I clearly stated you can turn it on by the key or just turn key to accessory position and push button. No matter what you need the key to start the car!
Oh and Jaybur, I did replace all three bulbs a few months back in the DIC.
And if you watch the video, I clearly show how to start it either way, via key!

Ignition in the dash?
I think I need to wire in a dimmer, that button is bright.
I really wish it had the proximity sensor to arm button, but this isn't a 2008 vehicle nor a rich man!

I know what you mean. I actaully talking about other car like Nissan who have start button that make it easy for thief.

Well, those cars have the proximity key. Where if it is within 3 meters or so of the activation switch to arm push button, then you can start the car.
But the key has a sensor built in to activate the push button, even if the key is in your pocket.
So a theif will need a key or some quick wiring to steal the car.

I see. I thought it is just start button only for Nissan.

dude thats sick as hell!!

i so want one but y did u take out your hud?

or did u just move the controls?

nice job!...looking forward to getting mine done...dont need to worry about the HUD tho (since I dont have one)

Nice job.

Congrats!

you can just put a resistor in line on the positive ore negative side (whichever is easier)

I tried a 47 ohm in line on my test light and it dimmed it quite a bit. (47 ohm NOT 47K ohm.)

all a dimmer switch does is vary the resistance as you turn it.

you can get the resistors at radio shack.

But I am fairly new on the resistor scene, so maybe blackarrow can chime in with a recommendation on the size of the resistor. The one I used for a quick test was an 1/8 watt but it gets hot pretty quick so it must not be enough wattage.


OR you could find a dimmer out of a car and just adjust it to the right setting and then just zip tie it under the dash.

Yah I moved the HUD switches to the left hand side. And the cubby on the left moved to the right along with a drilled hole to insert the button in. I just had to add 18" of wire to the 7 wires for the HUD switches to get it to be moved to the other side. The switch and cubby hole are similar, and swap over easy as pie. They just basically rest in place.

Is it possible to wire the button light in with the instrument panel lights so that the factory dimmer switch will work? I usually dim the dash light down at night on a trip anyway so that would tone the button down with it.

20gtp02 deserves some big kudos for taking nice pics to showcase his work...these will be big help for future reference...well done

And two big thumbs up to Blackarrow and Jaybur for their concise wiring diagrams and elec knowledge. This inspires confidence for the first timers and quells many of the fears of screwing things up.

Way to go guys

I'm not nearly as spooked about doing this now.

nice idea

yea you can wire the light into the dash lights. All you would need to do (20gtp02 ) is run a wire from that switch (+ input for light) to one of the illumination wires in the dash., then during the day it will not light up, and anytime your dash lights are on the button will light up.

Yes, that's how all of my gauges are lit.

Here ya go, Tbat: Lighting Your Gauges

I know on a 98 its the grey with black tracer thats the dimmer wire. The all grey is just switched 12 volt.

I'm not a fan of the push start button but that is nice and that button is bright as hell.

awe, no arming switch in place of the ignition??? I'm dissapointed



looks good though, nice work

Yah, that is too much. Especially if you have to use the key in the ignition 4rsssfed_grandprix98.
Thanks Jaybur and BlackArrow.
Jaybur, one more thing, can you post how you know what each terminal does on the relay.
I like that idea with wiring into dimmer switch, but I like it on, just need it dimmed. And I like my dimmer all the way, fullblast. So I may need to find an auto dimmer somewhere.

Dad gets curious of my modding sometimes.
So he asked, and I said just installing a switch. Then later on he wants more detail.
Cause one of his genius buddies installs on/off switches on his expensive rides so no one can steal it.
So I told him I am installing push button switch.
So the next day he asks to see what I did.
I showed him and he got a kick out of it!

it just comes from experience.

I used to have to install 7 relays per bus. The shop I worked for put wheelchair lifts in buses that never had them to begin with.

relays are pretty basic honestly.

my best explanation is it is just a switch that can handle a bigger load than most small switches can handle.

Also it allows most of the wiring to be smaller gauge.

your relay is a SPDT relay. "single pole Dual throw" single pole is pin 30 the dual throw is referring to having 2 different contact points (87 and 87A) If the relay did not have 87A it would have been an SPST "Single pole (pin 30) single throw (only to pin 87) and you would have been choosing ignition, OR push button, but not both. there are other variations too, but I won't go into that now.

this diagram may help you understand it.

as it is, the relay would not be energized, allowing you to turn your ignition key "on" to start the car.

pushing the start button energizes the relay, causing the electromagnet to pull the contact pad away from pin 87A and contacting pin 87.




pins 85 and 86 have nothing to do with 30, 87A or 87. it is its own circuit.

therefore you can use the relay to control a positive current, or the negative current but NEVER both.

oh no, I meant use the arming switch in place of the ignition so no key is needed

gotcha both!

I'd use a momentary toggle switch with the guard. That would be cooler. Flip down the guard hit the switch once the engines running let go the switch and flip the guard back.

That would mean I'd have two $80 keys worthless now!
Need a security feature though if using this momentary toggle switch. Maybe a hidden switch that powers the toggle then hit the toggle. But then that is just going to be annoying to always start the car that way, unless the car isn't a DD anymore, which I would like it to not be in the future.

The good thing about my setup now, is if my car is needed for some emergency or someone doesn't know my car, they can start it up as usual without wondering how to use the push button start.
Until it leaves its DD duties, it will be like that.

I was saying use the toggle vice the pushbutton.