I know on a 98 its the grey with black tracer thats the dimmer wire. The all grey is just switched 12 volt.

I'm not a fan of the push start button but that is nice and that button is bright as hell.

awe, no arming switch in place of the ignition??? I'm dissapointed



looks good though, nice work

Yah, that is too much. Especially if you have to use the key in the ignition 4rsssfed_grandprix98.
Thanks Jaybur and BlackArrow.
Jaybur, one more thing, can you post how you know what each terminal does on the relay.
I like that idea with wiring into dimmer switch, but I like it on, just need it dimmed. And I like my dimmer all the way, fullblast. So I may need to find an auto dimmer somewhere.

Dad gets curious of my modding sometimes.
So he asked, and I said just installing a switch. Then later on he wants more detail.
Cause one of his genius buddies installs on/off switches on his expensive rides so no one can steal it.
So I told him I am installing push button switch.
So the next day he asks to see what I did.
I showed him and he got a kick out of it!

it just comes from experience.

I used to have to install 7 relays per bus. The shop I worked for put wheelchair lifts in buses that never had them to begin with.

relays are pretty basic honestly.

my best explanation is it is just a switch that can handle a bigger load than most small switches can handle.

Also it allows most of the wiring to be smaller gauge.

your relay is a SPDT relay. "single pole Dual throw" single pole is pin 30 the dual throw is referring to having 2 different contact points (87 and 87A) If the relay did not have 87A it would have been an SPST "Single pole (pin 30) single throw (only to pin 87) and you would have been choosing ignition, OR push button, but not both. there are other variations too, but I won't go into that now.

this diagram may help you understand it.

as it is, the relay would not be energized, allowing you to turn your ignition key "on" to start the car.

pushing the start button energizes the relay, causing the electromagnet to pull the contact pad away from pin 87A and contacting pin 87.




pins 85 and 86 have nothing to do with 30, 87A or 87. it is its own circuit.

therefore you can use the relay to control a positive current, or the negative current but NEVER both.

oh no, I meant use the arming switch in place of the ignition so no key is needed

gotcha both!

I'd use a momentary toggle switch with the guard. That would be cooler. Flip down the guard hit the switch once the engines running let go the switch and flip the guard back.

That would mean I'd have two $80 keys worthless now!
Need a security feature though if using this momentary toggle switch. Maybe a hidden switch that powers the toggle then hit the toggle. But then that is just going to be annoying to always start the car that way, unless the car isn't a DD anymore, which I would like it to not be in the future.

The good thing about my setup now, is if my car is needed for some emergency or someone doesn't know my car, they can start it up as usual without wondering how to use the push button start.
Until it leaves its DD duties, it will be like that.

I was saying use the toggle vice the pushbutton.