Thanks for the info.
Could the cylinder #3 missfire be caused by the car over heating, loosing power, and dieing on highwy. Igot the overheating issue fixed so far.

Thanks,
Why did it say the same code twice? Is it because of two different problems that caused the P0303 Code

one was current, one was from a previous drive cycle, i assume.

pull the plugs and see how they look, particularly number 3. as was said, probably want to do the wires along with the plugs.

Checked spark plug it was a little loose, had black soot on it where combustion was leaking out onto it, was wet with gas, checked for spark, had spark, maybe not enough spark do do the job its suppose to, will change plugs and wires soon. and update.

Hey if there was a air leak from the intake or head would there have been a different code other then P0303 also?

Kool changed the oil, while waiting for funds to jump up, and I was under car and thinking, and I brought myself back to when I popped off the #3 plug wire from coil, and remembered the coil prong was rusty collored, so I checked the other coil prongs and they were all shiny, so there's my Cylinder #3 misfire prob. The first P0303 was the loose #3 plug, and the second was the coil.
Then I thought about when I reved the engine and it would bog out, and I thought it was a massive air leak somewhere, I took car for a ride around the block and the power was good and strong, so can't be the head or head gasket, or intake.
so in park I reved it from inside the vehicle, and seen it only bogged at around 4000 rpm's, yes it's suppose to, thats the limiter kicking in, what a relief I will get a new coil and update later, thanks for all the help gentlemen.

Yep I always found it weird that weak coils/worn wires would only act up when the engine was being loaded down. Had a van that needed new wires and the only time I'd have any issues was accellerating to get on the freeway. Never a problem in any other scenario. But eventually it got the point where my four cylinder was only a three cylinder so...

I proceeded to pull wires until I found one that made no differnce while the engine was running. found the bad one right away when it decided to bite me. Nothing like having one hand on the radiator support and having a plug wire arc you your fingers.

well funds are low so was able to at least get a new coil, but prob still exist, rough idle, engine runs rough unless I push the rpms up then it smooths out, so wires and plugs are next, I did notice the #3 plug wire just slips on and off, doesn't pop on and off like the others do.

I bet that's the problem.

I don't have enough to get the plugs and wires, I tried just putting a wire on from a different vehicle, but still ran the same, idle's rough w/service engine light still on, when I shut it off sounded like air was leaking out engine somewhere, loud hiss, now car won't start, Low fuel light was on so hopefully just out of gas.

Well looked at my oil this morning and its cot coolant in it.SOB. could a warped UIM do that or am I looking at head gasket?

Drain the oil and post a pic.

Will do soon as I get my camera back, I just changed the oil last week while waiting for funds to build up to get plugs and wires, oil was fine then, had to move the car to avoid tickets, last thursday, and yesterday morning when I pulled the dipstick it was rusty collored, funny thing is I just flushed all the dex out and pu antifreese in, don't know why its rusty collored. The resivoir and radiator are still full of new prestone antifreese.
Maybe my new waterpump/thermostat is defective and the new antifreeze never entered the engine, and all the water from flush just seeped down through cylinders from warped uim.

Once I change the oil, it should be ok to do a compression check right, no more coolant should get down in the crankcase, or is there a way to get all the coolant out of the engine before compression check, remove thermostat housing or would water pump be better.

http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk9/mariog207_2008/DSC00018.jpg
Didn't drain oil yet, been raining here, but here is a pic of dipstick, Hope that helps, sorry kind of blurry, just a cell ph. pic, daughters bringing camera over tomorrow will post another.

Here is another shot from cell ph/camera, I hope my eyes were just playin tricks on me,
http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk9/mariog207_2008/DSC00023.jpg
I diddn't fully flush the engine when I added prestone antifreese,
when I changed the plastic elbow between alt bracket and block and thermostat I just ran the hose through radiater until water poured out the elbow whole and ts hole for about five min. then I slapped it all together. It has new oil in crankcase.

You guys probobly wouldn't recomend a upper intake manifold from a wrecking yard would ya, A place called southend auto has a couple for $35 If I pull apart.