Hey guys, question. When I got out to go to work today, my driver's window wouldn't roll down. I was looking around the forum, and found some possible causes for it, but I didn't see anywhere that told me how to find out find out what the problem is. (I probably just missed it somewhere)

So, how do I eliminate some of the possibilities?

It was raining last night for a little while, but it worked then. When I got out today, it didn't work, but on the way home, it was working again. At least it got stuck in the up position though.

It really sucks, because I usually drive with the windows down, to keep the A/C off and not rob engine power. And it finally felt like 125* outside today, so I had to roll up my other three windows and sunroof and just put on the A/C.

Might be a bad window switch. I had my passenger window switch go out, if I used it, the window wouldn't go down, but if I used the master driver switch it would go down. Process of elimination.

Well, unfortunately, since it's the driver's window, it's only got one switch. lol

I hesitate to say it's them motor, because if it was, wouldn't it just completely quit, not just work sometimes?

i have the same problem with my pass window ... some times it dosnt roll down with eather switches but then at times it does ??

may be an electrical gremlin at work. I had the same fault when both my alternator and battery were going bad. Using a multimeter at the switch and the motor will help you find out if current is traveling along that circuit. Good luck.

Is a multimeter something fairly cheap I could pick up at Autozone or Advanced Auto Parts or someplace like that?

lol, depends on the accuaracy and dependability you want. A GOOD DMM can cost a few hundred USD, where a decent kinda-ok analog MM can cost you as low as 20 USD. For this job, all you will most likely be doing is "ohming" or "ringing" the wires anyway, so someting cheap should suffice.

You can get a digital for under $30.

The windows are hard to tell. I metered my wires and I was getting 12v in both directions. So put in a new motor and regulator. Still had problems. I burnt the switch out the day I installed the new motor and regulator so I put in a new switch and everything worked great for about nine months now my window is acting up. Mine usually gets stuck down.

My theory is because the regulator takes some oomph to move up that the current limiter in the switch (safety feature so when the window encounters an obstacle it will stop) trips early and won't allow the window to move.

One of these days I'm gonna tear it apart and check all the wires all the way through the door and into the cabin. I just might see if Ed can hook me up with a different wire harness and switch to work with.

Well, so far, it's just stopped working the one time. I haven't left it down, I've just tested it and put it up because I'm scared it'll get stuck down, but I'm praying it was just a fluke.

Here's a little story for you and something you can try ... it has worked on my '98 GTP.

About 5 years ago, both my front and rear passenger windows quit working. I had the $tealership check it out and they told me that BOTH window motors needed to be replaced at a cost close to $500!
Don

Cool, I'll remember that.

$500?! That's ridiculous! Just how much do motors cost? Obviously, labor would be expensive, but I thought the motors were pretty cheap.

mine did that...it was the motor...it would work some days then it wouldn't on others...you can test it with a test light thing...just hook the clamp to a bolt and hold the prong on a bare wire going to the motor...press the switch and see if it lights up then its the motor...or something like that...but the motor for my car was 100 bucks...i put it in about half hour...its easy...

Like I said my meter was showing 12 volts in both directions. Put new motor and regulator in and it still didnt work. Swapped to a new switch and it worked regularly. Now it's intermitant again less then a year later. The colder wetter outside the less it'll work.

At least with mine it's something funky that's why Im looking at replacing the entire system with regulator/motor switch and wire harness that goes all the way through the door next.

But first I have to replace the struts The front passenger side is completely gone. The tire bounces down the road like a basketball.

Well, it wasn't just a one time thing. On my way to work today, my back right window wouldn't work, from either button.

Here's a thought: Is there any way it could be related to the outside air temp? Meaning, could something be overheating somewhere? Because so far, I've only had problems when it's been very hot outside. When it's cool, everything seems to work.

*EDIT* nvm. I forgot to try it on the way home from work, so I just went out and tried it. Of course, it still didn't work.

So, what could cause two separate windows to stop working (assuming, of course, they didn't happen to have both motors fail or something). And is my sunroof in danger?