K&N installation #2

Modifying your intake to a K&N cone-style filter

The Jamie Dresser Method

Another method, probably easier to implement, by Jamie Dresser.

Pictures of the final installation:

A view from the front of the car
Another view from the left

NOTE: I have been told by a list member that K&N states that this type of kit is not emissions legal in the state of California. Please use this information only if you understand this.

Begin

Well, after installing my K&N filter the "Traditional" way (i.e. The Steve Calbert method using a 3" rubber coupling & attaching it to the throttle body). I was not happy with the way the PCM is left in limbo doing this, and didnšt want to fabricate a bracket to hold it in place. This method leaves the factory airbox/fender grommet/PCM in it's factory original location, and aids in replacing the cone intake back to the stock intake system, in case you wanted to take the car in for warranty service and didnšt want a service manager giving you a hard time. Literally, if you have the extra intake hose described below, I can swap from the cone filter setup back to stock in less than 3 minutes. Really! Itšs easy!

I cut part of the original factory air intake "hose" off (yes, it's $63 Part (retail) $48 Part (trade cost), GM Part #25165727 (and, it includes a new IAT!). I kinda figure that since the car's worth $25K, you should be able to afford a $50 part.

Here are the parts you will need:

K&N cone filter (instructions are for a 4" outlet x 9" long #RE-0870) The RE-0870 will work better than the 7" version, the 9" actually fits in just right and the end rests on the top bracket for the electric cooling fan.
3" EMT Conduit Piece, 3" Long, or use ABS Plastic or Aluminum EMT. Do not use PVC Plastic, as it can warp/shrink.

Tools Required:

Sharp razor knife (and I mean sharp! Change the blade and you'll cut straight!
3/8" Socket Wrench
Short extention
15mm Socket
Straight Screwdriver

Time Required: 30-45 Minutes (or less)

The Upgrade

(Optional: You don't need to remove the crossmember from the car, but it makes things A LOT easier if you do. You need a 3/8" ratchet, short extension and a 15mm socket to remove the 3 bolts holding it on).

Start by removing the original air intake hose. Easy, just unscrew the little butterfly clamp off the air box, pull a bit and it'll come free. Then, remove the quick disconnect fitting on the IAT. Take the intake hose and remove it from the throttle body, takes a bit of pressure to get it to unhook.

Once you have it off and out of the way, unsnap the breather box clamp that holds in the air filter. Take it off and remove the filter, you won't need them any more (until you need to return the car to stock, at least).

Take the original air hose and with a sharp knife, cut the hose in half, leaving 2 ribs intact. You want to leave 2 ribs so that the existing butterfly hose clamp can be re-used to hold the hose to the...

3" EMT! Conduit. Or, you can use ABS Plastic pipe. This is up to you. I used electrical EMT conduit, you make the call, after all, itšs your car. You need to procure a piece of 3" EMT conduit. Cut the 3" EMT exactly 3" long, insert the 3" into the K&N cone filter (I used the large one, the 4x9) and clamp it down tightly. This size is a perfect fit, I know that it sounds weird using 3" to fit into a 4" cone filter, the OD is correct though.

Take the old butterfly clamp and cut the little rubber keeper off the bottom. Unscrew the clamp totally. Place it onto the intake hose (what's left of it) and struggle mightily to get it into the groove. Make sure that the nice little butterfly clamp part lines up with the flattened area of the intake hose (the part closest to the PCM box), it will make things easier to tighten. Do not overtighten this! The rubber can tear or weaken enough to tear over time. If you are worried about it, you could use some black RTV silicone on it, and seal the conduit into the area like I did. Works great, and therešs no chance of it loosening up. Also, some hi-temperature tape can cover the hose clamps so that it looks "cleaner", this is up to you.

Take a dab of engine oil(yes, the amount that's on the dipstick will work fine, thank you!) and put it on the inside of the intake hose where it connects to the throttle body. It will aid in the insertion/removal. Place the intake hose back onto the throttle body. Take the K&N filter and force fit it into the nice tight area that's left for it. Don't wrinkle the filter (or bend, spindle, mutilate, etc.) if you can help it. It may help to be doing this while the car is cool since you're working in such close proximity to the upper radiator hose, right? Once you've gotten it into the tight area, it's pretty simple to get it to slide together. Clamp it down tight, making sure that you have a good fit between the filter and hose. If you cut straight like I hope you did, it will look really nice. If not, perhaps some good electricians tape would work to cover the mess, so to speak. You can do the entire conversion outside of the car, and just fit it in after youšre done, but the first time you do this you might want to "visualize" it before you really do it.

Replace the IAT sensor wires. Reinstall the crossmember, if you optionally chose to remove it.

Start the car. It still has that sweet metallic zing to it, but those little mushrooms on the hose definitely aren't there for looks! My Wife likes the sound much better than before, and it looks so much better.

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